by Gina DePalma, Pastry Chef

CHESTNUT FLOUR FROM THE GARFAGNANA

If you mentioned the Garfagnana to a medieval Tuscan his eyes may have widened in fright, for the Garfagnana was a land of robbers, roving bandits and fearsome mercenaries that silently moved through heavily forested hills and nearly impenetrable mountain peaks. Centuries ago, this was a wild and untamed area of northern Tuscany that mainly served as a passage way for the brave of heart from the Apuan Alps down to the city of Lucca and beyond. A bit to the west, the majestic white marble mountains of Carrara seem to jut out of the sea, and to the east, the softer hills of the Appenines wind off endlessly into the northern horizon. The Serchio River cuts through the rough terrain, flanked by a narrow valley, the Valle del Serchio.

The Garfagnana was an isolated and rugged area, dotted with towns perched high atop rocky peaks and hidden behind heavily fortified castles. Today, the Garfagnana is still isolated, but delightedly so, from hordes of tourists still busy concentrating on the gentle rolling green hills of the Val D’Orcia and the splendor of Siena and Florence. It is part of The Other Tuscany, the quiet yet unbroken Tuscany, the Tuscany of my dreams.

Since so much of the landscape of the Gargfagnana was covered in thick forests, it is natural that chestnuts became a key component in the local diet. In times of war, when the battling lords of Lucca, Ferrara and Florence squabbled over control of the Garfagnana, her inhabitants would retreat to the heavy cover of the forests and survive on a chestnut–based diet – roasted, boiled and ground. Today, the locals are still proud of their chestnuts, which they boast are the best in Tuscany. Chestnuts are gathered in enormous quantities, many of which are ground into flour that the Garfagnese refer to as farina dolce – referring to the particular sweetness of their crop - to be used in local breads, cookies, and griddle cakes known as necci, cooked over an open fire.

One of my favorite uses of naturally sweet chestnut flour are in crispy fritters, frittelle di castagne, flavored with many of the same ingredients found in the local chestnut cake, castagnaccio. Studded with pine nuts and currants and spiked with a bit of rosemary, these fritters are delightful with a dab of – you guessed it – chestnut honey. A dab or two of fresh ricotta won’t hurt either! Chestnut flour is getting easier and easier to find. Try Whole Foods, if it is in your area, or your local specialty store. Here in New York, I prefer to visit DiPalo Dairy, on the corner of Grand and Mott Streets, where I can find everything I need to make these yummy treats.

Chestnut Fritters
Frittelle di Castagne

¼ cup pine nuts
1 ½ cups chestnut flour
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
3 T. granulated sugar
½ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. ground nutmeg
2 large eggs
¼ cup whole milk
¼ cup water
2 tsps. chopped fresh rosemary
¼ cup dried currants
Canola or Vegetable oil for frying
Confectioners sugar for dusting
Chestnut Honey for serving

Toast the pine nuts in a hot oven, or on top of the stove in a dry sauté pan, until they are golden brown and aromatic. Allow the nuts to cool, then chop them coarsely with a sharp knife.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the chestnut flour, all-purpose flour, baking powder, salt and spices. Make a well in the center and add the eggs, water and milk. Using a spoon and a firm hand, combine the ingredients together to form a firm batter, add a few more drops of milk or water if necessary to thin it out. Stir in the rosemary and currants.

Heat the oil in a countertop deep fryer, or a heavy, deep saucepan, to 340º. Drop the batter by rounded teaspoons into the hot oil, and fry the fritters on both sides until they are golden brown. (Test the first fritter to make sure it is done in the center and determine the proper cooking time).

Drain the fritters on paper towels and serve them warm, dusted with confectioner’s sugar and drizzled with chestnut honey.

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