By Gina DePalma

Cenci (Sweet Fried Dough)

Italian fried sweets are most popular during Carnevale, just before Lent, but cenci are the exception to the rule. In my family, we always made them during the winter holidays. I most fondly remember having them as a pre-cursor to the Thanksgiving pies; my mom and aunts would fry them up for us kids to snack on, drizzled with honey and dusted with confectioner’s sugar. I think they became a tradition because it kept us out of the way while the dinner dishes were done and the turkey feast was being digested.

Depending upon which region of Italy you are in, there are a number of names for this treat, but in Cortona, they are known as cenci, which means “rags,” an especially fitting name when they are irregularly cut, resembling torn fabric. The aliases for this crispy treat also include frappe(fringes), zacarette(shavings),and nastrini(ribbons). My favorite name for them has to be chiacchiere della nonna, or, “grandmother’s chatter.” Go and figure that one out.

There aren’t a lot of rules to follow for great frying, nor is there any particularly fancy equipment to buy. All you need is a heavy, deep pot. Cast iron is a particularly good choice, since it retains its heat better than anything else I have tried. If you don’t have a cast iron dutch oven, such as one from Lodge or Le Creuset, your heaviest, deep saucepan will do the job nicely. The other tool for frying that is indispensable is a good candy/deep-fry thermometer; the kind that clips onto the side of the pan is the safest choice. A good thermometer makes it possible to monitor the heat of the oil as you fry and turn the heat up or down as needed.

Never crowd the pan when frying; it will cause the temperature of the oil to drop, your foods will absorb too much oil and become greasy, especially doughy items like doughnuts and fritters. A Chinese skimmer with a wooden handle is handy for removing delicate foods from the oil.

Drain your cenci on paper towels, and serve them hot! I always dredge them with powdered sugar, and then move on to other accompaniments. A very traditional way to eat them would be to dip them in vincotto, but I also enjoy them with a bit of warm chestnut honey and some fresh sheep’s milk ricotta.

Cenci (Sweet Fried Dough)

Adapted from the book, Dolce Italiano, Desserts From the Babbo Kitchen

1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
3 large eggs
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick, 2 oz.) unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Olive Oil for frying
About ½ cup additional flour for kneading
Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, use the paddle attachment on medium speed to beat the eggs with the butter, granulated sugar, confectioners’ sugar and vanilla until combined; the mixture will appear somewhat curdled. Add the dry ingredients and beat to form a soft dough. Turn the mixture onto a floured board, and using up to ½ cup additional flour, knead until the dough is smooth and just firm enough to roll, about 1 minute. Do not allow the dough to become elastic; it should remain very soft and smooth.

Divide the dough into 3 pieces. Work with one piece at a time, keeping the other two pieces wrapped and in the refrigerator. Have ready a parchment-lined baking sheet, lightly dusted with flour, upon which to lay the rolled cenci.

Lightly dust your work surface, rolling pin, and the dough with flour. Roll the dough to a thickness of about 1/16 th of an inch. Using a fluted pastry cutter, cut the dough into strips, about 6 to 8 inches long and ¾ -inch wide. Lay the strips onto the flour-dusted baking sheet, keeping the strips covered with plastic wrap as you continue to roll out and cut the dough.

When all of the dough has been cut, heat 4 to 6 cups, or 6 inches of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed stock pot or countertop fryer to 360 °F. Fry the strips, 4 or 5 at a time, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. The cenci should be puffed and lightly golden brown on each side. Drain the cenci on paper towels briefly, then sprinkle them generously with confectioners’ sugar on both sides. They are best served immediately.

Makes 24 or more cenci, depending upon the size

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