Photo by Gina DePalma, Pastry Chef

Gorgonzola, Piquant And Sweet

I can’t resist talking about cheese instead of sweets this month, because the province of Vercelli is ground zero for one of Italy’s greatest cheeses, Gorgonzola. Although it originated a few miles away in neighboring Lombardy, this Piedmontese town is all about the mighty blue.

Blue cheeses are little hard to love if you have a delicate palate; they can be strong, salty and even taste a bit ammoniated. And then there’s the whole thing about eating mold you’ve got to wrap your head around. If you’ve stayed away from blue cheeses in the past, I think Gorgonzola just might be the cheese to change your mind.

There are two faces to Gorgonzola: Piccante and Dolce. Piccante is also referred to as Gorgonzola di Montagne, or Mountain Gorgonzola, and Dolce is often identified as Cremificato. Both are made with 100 percent cow’s milk; Gorgonzola Piccante is strong and piquant, while Cremificato Dolce is mild, creamy and (almost) sweet.

Before we talk about what makes them different, let’s focus on what both versions share in common. Both owe their blue veining to a particular strain of bacteria, Penicillium roqueforti, which is added to milk when the cheese is being made. It is a common misconception that blue mold is “injected” into the cheese, but in actuality, it is the introduction of air into the ageing process that causes the blue veining to develop. Long copper needles are inserted into the cheeses at a specific point in the process, triggering the growth of the flavorful mold.

Although Gorgonzola Piccante and Gorgonzola Dolce share their bacterial friend in common, they are actually quite different from each other. Mountain Gorgonzola is firmer, with a greater amount of blue veining. It has a tighter texture, but melts into creamy finish on the tongue. After the first spicy, pungent hit, the flavor softens to a nutty, buttery finish. My favorite way to enjoy it is on warm semolina bread drizzled with chestnut honey with toasted walnuts.

Gorgonzola Cremificato Dolce is moist, soft and almost pudding-like, the result of a higher moisture content and larger curd. The blue veining is subtle and feathery, with a soft, gentle flavor. It is glistening and creamy, perfect for melting into warm pasta, perhaps with some freshly chopped mint. Honey works well here, too, but a milder honey such as acacia or millifiori will make a better partner. I adore Gorgonzola Dolce with fresh pears, or cherries, or even sweet peaches.

Which one should you try? I say try them both, and love them both. A side-by-side tasting will make for the best comparison of texture, aroma and flavor, and from there you can decide which will become your favorite. For me, no assortment of cheese, Italian or otherwise, is complete with a bit of Gorgonzola, to tantalize the palate and stir the senses. Buon Appetito!

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